New Guinea, Micronesia, Philippines and Thailand.

Arrive Tahiti before end of May.

Arrive Marquases before end of April.

Arrive Galapagos islands before end of March.

At the latest March 14th:  Depart Panama for Galapagos

March 6th: Transit Panama Canal

March 4th: Arrival of Spencer

February 29th: Arrival of Hubert

February 28th: Arrival of Anthony

February 10th: Arrival of Jacek

February 12th to ?:  Being measured for canal transit and awaiting date for the transit

February 7th to February 12th: Haulout at Shelter bay Marina for painting the bottom

January 20th to February 4th: Anchored at Isla Lynton making improvements and preparations to Tropicbird

If you feel that you fit with the two of us then please contact me. My responses are in bold italics

On 12/10/11, Jacek  wrote:

Hi Julian,

Here are my details as requested:

My name is Jacek Spera. I’m 33. I’m from Poland. I’m currently based in Dublin where I’ve been working  as a web developer for the last 2 years. Before that I lived in Manchester for 3 years doing basically the same. I’ve decided to end my employment there end of December. Good timing

 I intend to take about a year break from work.  Good duration allows time for the crossing, I am in no hurry and it’s a long way with the opportunity of many stops

I’ve got very little sailing experience. It is limited to sailing on lakes in small boats. No problem I know you’re not looking for passengers and neither I would like to be one. Nicely put I am hoping to learn from you. I can’t help but teach although I am using this opportunity and life itself to learn more myself

I keep myself in good shape; I’ve done my deal of manual labor in my life and I don’t shy away from hardship and adversities. I want to be a worthy member of your crew. The main challenge I have is with sleep deprivation, (sometimes this happens during bad weather etc) That’s primarily why I am looking for company

I’ve no medical conditions. I only drink occasionally. I am a smoker however. I plan to quit beginning of the new year and if I’m not off smoking before we meet I’ll embark for the trip without any smokes on me. That should sort it out. Being on my boat for a long period is a great way to overcome addition

My Polish passport allows me entering all those countries without having visas (Panama, Equador, French overseas territories, Thailand).  It’s valid until 2016. Thanks for the detail.

 I believe I’ve got sufficient funds to cover the required expenses. I would however like to know roughly how much I’m going to spend. I’ve no people dependent on me and therefore like I said I’m interested in doing the full length of the trip.

Fees are 35 dollars a day, 245 per week per person, this includes food eaten aboard, fuel , water and all those domestic items like toilet rolls, cooking, oil, cooking gas

The extras would be your personal entry immigration/visa to countries visited, I will fund the boats entry (if we choose to stay at a marina, (seldom needed) we will discuss and share the cost, in eleven years I have never chosen a marina, preferring to anchor

 I am ready to fly to Panama to meet you there so we can see how we get on. I could be there before 10/1 possibly as early as 4-5/1. In case either of us decide this isn’t a good idea that I join you on your trip I can travel up north to Mexico. I’m sure that can be great too.

 I think my English is pretty decent and I don’t expect any communication issues. Your English seems excellent, I like the detail. Please remember communication is extremely important to me, I am dealing with many inquirys

My personal reasons for wanting to do that are these: I think it makes sense for me to see and try other ways of life. I am simply curious. And it’s not the whimsical type of curiosity. I want to learn about myself, other people and the world we live in and learn practical skills too. I’ve been always blessed to meet people in my life who’ve made me a better, more complete person. I certainly hope it hasn’t been only me who benefited this way from those encounters. My way of life travelling since I was eighteen

Please let me know whether this is sufficient info or there is something missing.  Not at this stage you have covered in very good detail  It’d be great if you could also write about your expectations. I’ve read most posts on your website so I think I’ve got a rough idea but you might want to stress certain things nonetheless. I’d like to know whether what number of crew you’re going to have and whether there will be any experienced seamen apart from you.

At this stage I have the door open for two people to join me, I have one ‘in the wings’ right now and you, I get inquiries all the time

MY EXPECTATIONS. I have no great expectations. However I was brought

up with good manners and politeness. Tropicbird is my home and my

efforts have presented her for you to share this opportunity. In

regard to this there is a high regard for respect.

I expect the journey to be testing and at times arduous. Yet at other

times satisfying and always soul enriching.

 Thanks for reading this. Please let me know what you think.

 Kind regards,

Jacek

The Pacific passage plan is:
Transit the Panama canal from Colon on the Caribbean side. No later than January 10th 2012.
Depart Panama City across the  Pacific soon after transiting the canal before January 20th 2012.

Arrive Galapagos islands before end of March.

Arrive Marquases before end of April.

Arrive Tahiti before end of May.

Onward to Fiji and later Thailand.

A unique opportunity awaits and I am offering this opportunity to unique people!

Crossing the Pacific is a big deal and a great adventure.

The following is information I need to have and you need to consider before getting a week into the passage across the Pacific, perhaps 1000 miles and asking to go back. This is my filter system.

The fees for the passage to Thailand are identified on the post Pacific Crew

Anyone travelling on Tropicbird no matter what they pay contributes to the domestic chores. On passage ‘watches’ are taken and everyone involves themselves equally. This is passage making on a sailing yacht not a cruise on a cruise liner.

Terms and conditions for the crew:

The rate for staying on Tropicbird whether at anchor or not will be discussed and agreed upon before departure.
Those expenses are diesel, gasoline for the dinghy, gas for the cooker, all  food, domestic consumables like toilet rolls and cleaning products, cruising permits and entry fees dependent on the passage.

Each leg of  any passage will be calculated monetarily against the estimated time and expenses. Payments will be in advance.

All crew must show proof of a return ticket from the port of disembarkation and sufficient funds to satisfy immigration laws of any country which they may be required to enter and/or exit. The captain is not responsible for any expenses of the crew to or from his vessel.

All to be discussed by email at liveaboardsailing@gmail.com

Or skype capitanojuliano

Or telephone (507) 600 63873

Some useful passage making tips can be found at wesail.com

When people ask me how long have I been sailing I tell them that I was sailing before I was born. The fact is my mother was pregnant with me whilst sailing in a regatta in the family boat. My first recollections are with my dad in dinghies on the Norfolk Broads. These are small lakes on the east coast of England where, it’s rumored that Admiral Lord nelson learned to sail on the broads, whilst his parents owned a pub in the area.

So from this I have come to being the owner and captain of  Tropicbird. Some say a marriage made in heaven since she is a wooden boat and I have spent most of my working life as a Boat Carpenter.

After starting my apprenticeship way back when I wasn’t quite sixteen years old I have worked on many fine yachts. There is passion in my work and since I adhere to the ethic which my father preached to me so many years ago ‘A job worth doing is worth doing well’ my carpentry has been praised.
My practicality has been applied to rebuilding yachts and also in emergency situations making repairs quickly and efficiently. My involvement with boats has resulted in learning other trades also such as diesel mechanics, plumbing and electrics.
Above all this is my passion for sailing. I have described sailing as the most spiritual form of transport known to man and I still quote ‘now here is the sweetest sound’ each time I turn the engine off and let my boat sail. I like to keep my sails trimmed precisely and everything ‘Shipshape and Bristol fashion’ and to quote my father as I am apt to do ‘look after the ship and the ship will look after you’!
My first experience of big boats was with my uncle on his charter yacht in the Greek Islands back when I was eighteen. Ever since I have been acquiring more skills and experience although I am never too old to learn. Someday I will learn celestial navigation but for the time being I use electronic and back this up with paper charts especially for long passages.
I can cook, although I am really pleased when someone cooks for me. Since I do the washing up for myself it comes as no hardship to pull my weight and do this in return for the cooked meal.
I believe in good manners and politeness, these attributes were taught to me by my parents and they have great value. I believe in ‘do unto others as you would have done to you’ that’s also the closest to religion as I get.
It seems that alcohol doesn’t suit me as I wake up after a couple of hours sleep and suffer insomnia for the rest of the night, therefore I don’t drink. However I still enjoy a night out on the town and can dance the night away with the best of them. As one of two hosts the focus is on enjoyment.
I don’t particularly like paperwork and needless to say bureaucracy is frustrating for me. Despite this I studied and hold the Royal Yachting association International Certificate of Competence. (I had the choice for this to be ‘Yachtmaster’ but preferred to include the word International.
I like to teach and will readily show people the ‘right’ way to do anything around my boat, so absolute beginners are welcome. I hope that people feel safe under my captaincy and it is my wish that people can say that they have enjoyed my company and had a memorable experience in the very best of ways.

I advertise places on Tropicbird at new age travel.com, sailingvacations24.com , 7knots.com and floatplan.com

Clean yourself inside and out, on a boat. Choose a unique environment well away from temptation and social pressure. Separate yourself from electronic communication.

Try it for a while and get back to the original you, before all those nasty things influenced you to become the person you don’t like and/or am not proud to be.

Although a sailing boat retreat there is adventure as well.  A proposed situation of discovery and change to your present outlook on yourself and life itself. I am offering you time aboard my boat.

Why choose my boat? Wells she has taught me many things and now I, as custodian,  am offering those teachings to others.

What can an inanimate object like a boat teach a human being you may ask. Firstly I would argue the word inanimate with you since my boat tells me of the changing conditions of both the sea and the wind and of changes in her physical self is that inanimate?

I have lived on boats for eleven years and yet Tropicbird has become the closest to me. Perhaps; no definitely, because I have put so much of me into her. We have a spiritual, symbiotic relationship, I need her as a home and a means to enable my wanderlust and she, being built of wood needs me a ‘yacht carpenter’ to tend to her physical needs. For three years I have nurtured her back to life from a stagnant nearly hopeless case. We have grown individually, separately and together. We decided to choose each other!

Now it is your turn to choose to experience the benefits of this environment.

When I was witness to my mother’s  deterioration and finally death due to cancer over a period of three months, she prepared herself and she prepared me for our separate futures. Since I had cared and supported my family for many years and divorced for a couple of years she said. ‘’Now that you are on your own you must do something for yourself, what do you choose to do?’

My answer was that I choose to put my carpentry tools on a boat and travel, she said this is what I must do.  The rest is history as they say.

We are only on this planet for two things; to learn and to help each other. I am offering a somewhat unique venue for just that. My Tropicbird will accommodate your needs, she will provide a comfortable and safe bed for you to rest upon and a safe platform to gaze out at  nature and into yourself, under the watchful eye of mother nature.  Who incidentally will offer climatic changes to stimulate more thought and dictate the rhythm of your new environment.

ADDICTION and other unnecessary conditions:

I have overcome addition to cigarettes and alcohol and I have just stopped drinking coffee. (My experiments with other substances have not led to continual use, fortunately.)

(I work on my Geminian traits such as being a perfectionist and recurring O.C.D.)

CHOOSE TO HELP YOURSELF IN A UNIQUE  ENVIRONMENT

IF you are willing to accept and acknowledge help from yourself then come onto my boat for a while and put it into practice, this is an environment like no other.

The crew of the boat:

Captain,

My  job is the total responsibility for the safety and welfare of all persons aboard.  I am also responsible for the welfare of my boat. I sail, navigate and maintain; safety first.

Mate:

In charge of the galley (kitchen) and nutrition. Organizing the domestic chores amongst the crew.

The crew:

You will be the boat crew. This new environment you will be living in must be maintained. There is the preparation of food and the cleaning up afterwards. You choose what you want to get involved in (although the mate has the final word on the domestic front) there are vegetables to chop, fish to clean, potatoes to be peeled, washing up and clearing away. There is always something to do on a boat especially when under-way; navigation, sail handling etc. (The captain is keen to pass on his knowledge, you choose to learn).

It’s not all work by any means there will be plenty of time for snorkeling, exploring, listening to music, watching movies, counting dolphins and fishing, again you choose.

DRUGS on a boat:

There are no drugs of any kind on Tropicbird. It would be unfair on you to try to get cleansed when in reach of substances you want no reminder of.

WITHDRAWAL:

Tropicbird is not equipped to deal with applying drugs to help against withdrawal symptoms. Natural abstinence is advised and you can be assured of all the attention and care you ask for to get you through. You can do this !

You just need to get out of the wrong environment and in the right one, the real world!

NOTE: If the captain feels your condition will jeopardize the enjoyment or negatively effect those aboard Tropicbird, he will refuse embarkation.

The following is a link to some views on the subject:

http://endless-satsang.com/spiritual-enlightenment-spiritual-awakening.htm

Try it for a while and get back to the original you, before all those nasty things influenced you to become the person you don’t like and/or am not proud to be.

Julian

Although a sailing boat retreat there is adventure as well.  A proposed situation of discovery and change to your present outlook on yourself and life itself. I am offering you time aboard my boat.

Why choose my boat? Wells she has taught me many things and now I, as custodian,  am offering those teachings to others.

What can an inanimate object like a boat teach a human being you may ask. Firstly I would argue the word inanimate with you since my boat tells me of the changing conditions of both the sea and the wind and of changes in her physical self is that inanimate?

I have lived on boats for eleven years and yet Tropicbird has become the closest to me. Perhaps; no definitely, because I have put so much of me into her. We have a symbiotic relationship, I need her as a home and a means to enable my wanderlust and she, being built of wood needs me a ‘yacht carpenter’ to tend to her physical needs. For three years I have nurtured her back to life from a stagnant nearly hopeless case. We have grown individually, separately and together. We decided to choose each other!

Now it is your turn to choose to experience the benefits of this environment.

When I was witness to my mother’s  deterioration and finally death due to cancer over a period of three months, she prepared herself and she prepared me for our separate futures. Since I had cared and supported my family for many years and divorced for a couple of years she said. ‘’Now that you are on your own you must do something for yourself, what do you choose to do?’

My answer was that I choose to put my carpentry tools on a boat and travel, she said this is what I must do.  The rest is history as they say.

We are only on this planet for two things; to learn and to help each other. I am offering a somewhat unique venue for just that. My Tropicbird will accommodate your needs, she will provide a comfortable and safe bed for you to rest upon and a safe platform to gaze out at  nature and into yourself, under the watchful eye of mother nature.  Who incidentally will offer climatic changes to stimulate more thought and dictate the rhythm of your new environment.

ADDICTION and other unnecessary conditions:

I have overcome addiction to cigarettes and alcohol and I have just stopped drinking coffee. (My experiments with other substances have not led to continual use, fortunately.)

(I work on my Geminian traits such as being a perfectionist and recurring O.C.D.)

CHOOSE TO HELP YOURSELF IN A UNIQUE  ENVIRONMENT

IF you are willing to accept and acknowledge help from yourself then come onto my boat for a while and put it into practice, this is an environment like no other.

The crew of the boat:

Captain,

My  job is the total responsibility for the safety and welfare of all persons aboard.  I am also responsible for the welfare of my boat. I sail, navigate and maintain; safety first.

Mate:

In charge of the galley (kitchen) and nutrition. Organizing the domestic chores amongst the crew.

The crew:

You will be the boat crew. This new environment you will be living in must be maintained. There is the preparation of food and the cleaning up afterwards. You choose what you want to get involved in (although the mate has the final word on the domestic front) there are vegetables to chop, fish to clean, potatoes to be peeled, washing up and clearing away. There is always something to do on a boat especially when under-way; navigation, sail handling etc. (The captain is keen to pass on his knowledge, you choose to learn).

It’s not all work by any means there will be plenty of time for snorkeling, exploring, listening to music, watching movies, counting dolphins and fishing, again you choose.

DRUGS on a boat:

There are no drugs of any kind on Tropicbird. It would be unfair on you to try to get cleansed when in reach of substances you want no reminder of.

WITHDRAWAL:

Tropicbird is not equipped to deal with applying drugs to help against withdrawal symptoms. Natural abstinence is advised and you can be assured of all the attention and care you ask for to get you through. You can do this !

You just need to get out of the wrong environment and in the right one, the real world!

NOTE: If the captain feels your condition will jeopardize the enjoyment or negatively effect those aboard Tropicbird, he will refuse embarkation.

The following is a link to some views on the subject:

http://endless-satsang.com/spiritual-enlightenment-spiritual-awakening.htm

Marina

3 day charter (weekend example)  schedule:

Friday evening arrive at the marina.
Eat and drink at the restaurant, tour the slips and facilities. Sleep on Tropicbird overnight or the Villa
Saturday: 8am depart the 35 miles (7hrs) to the Sanblas.
3pm – 4pm Arrive Chichime Sanblas anchor overnight. Afternoon swimming, snorkeling, meeting the Kuna Indians, Local lobster and or fish for dinner on the yacht.
Sunday: Sail from Chichime to Dog Island (40 minutes) to snorkeling on the sunken ship and explore the island.
2pm Depart Dog island to arrive at the marina about 9pm
For an extra charge you may choose to return through the night to arrive about 7 am Monday

Marina Villa

The marina Villa with a pool is available at an extra charge

There is a small restaurant at the marina serving local Panamanian dishes.

This 3 day charter can be taken during the week if requested, extra days are also available.

All meals are provided whilst aboard Tropicbird. Simona is Italian so be assured of a Mediterranean flavor.

The cost for this marina Charter is:   190 dollars per person.

To book please contact via the contact form. Or telephone Julian on (507) 600 63873

Or the Turtle Cay Marina office 302 2100

Andres group charter ‘Blog’.

Written by their captain Julian.

It all started way back at the end of November 2010 when I got a telephone call whilst my boat Tropicbird and I were in Sapzurro Colombia. The person calling explained that he had found me on the internet and would I be able to take him and a group of his friends on a tour of the Sanblas islands. These islands lie along the coast of Panama and can be easily accessed from Sapzurro on the border with Colombia and Panama.  A myriad of questions followed and via emails and text messaging a plan was hatched. The guys’ name was Andres; see Clownaman.

Upon arrival in Capurgana the group of seven stayed at  Chillis’ hostel in Sapzurro before boarding Tropicbird. Over dinner I was able to plan with them the route and give them a better idea of the logistics. There were several under estimations of time and distance on their part but I decided not to be too dogmatic and hoped within a day or two decisions could be made much more easily;  given also that they had no experience of traveling on a sailing boat.

The group had traveled together before and so the dynamics had been established prior to this adventure. They were a mix of young professionals and (obviously to me) had been raised to respect others and practice good manners. Now was the time to add me to the mix.

It had been agreed that they should provide all the food and catering for the trip. There wasn’t enough room on their plane for a large bag of food which they had purchased, so whilst waiting for its arrival they hiked over the hillside to Carpurgana next to Sapzurro to finish the food shopping. They waited all afternoon for thirty loaves of bread to be baked, most of which were later fed to the fish after having gone moldy. This was the first example of the pragmatic sense of humor of the group as they held on to the bread for as long as possible managing to still have the bread in their possession several days after it was inedible. (Loathe or even ‘loaf’ to get rid of them.)

On the morning of 29^th of December we sailed off to Isla Pinos; six hours sailing up the coast to anchor for the first night.  Excited as young children they busied themselves with establishing their own ‘space’ and positioned themselves for their first experience of sailing on a cruising yacht. They adapted well apart from the threat of seasickness. However Dramamine had been advised and some had been taken so those most prone were getting used to the motion and thus nothing traumatic occurred. Tamara established herself as the worst sufferer but dealt with the issue by curling up under a sheet during all the passages.

Andres was the spokesman for the group, although they all spoke good English. They were curious about me and my lifestyle and I explained about my family and history of boats and in turn I learned of their individual lives and the adventures of the group. Andres had manufactured tee-shirts for everyone, each displaying the individuals’ name so that I might remember all of their names. I did a dismal job of remembering although it seemed easier for me to distinguish an individual by profession rather than by name. By the end of the trip I still couldn’t remember one of the girls names;  never mind.  Another gift was a traditional Colombian coffee strainer. All this showed considerable forethought on their part. I was appreciative and understood these acts as part of the bonding process. Perhaps non-‘random acts of kindness’; the motivation seemed similar.

We arrived at Isla Pinos, dropped anchor and all went for a swim. Most were experienced swimmers although two of the girls wanted to row the dinghy to shore so as to carry some camera equipment without getting it wet. I under estimated their skills at handling a small boat and had to dive into the water to bring them safely to shore. I made a bit of a fuss but I believe this established my authority and my desire for safety first. I had made the mistake of not accessing their capability before untying the dinghy; a lesson learned for me more than for them.

Having got into the dinghy I ferried them to the others on the beach. It was getting dark by this time and we all marveled at the stars and the clarity of the night sky. I told them of the extent of my astronomy knowledge, which is just that Venus is the first light to show, a planet rather than a star and I pointed it out; I was incorrect and they corrected me: hey-ho.

Feeling humbled and in appreciation of these wonderful people I started writing this sailing blog.

I was so happy to see them involved in their new environment. It helped me relax and feel that I could allow myself to enjoy myself and not get stressed out by the responsibility.  We retired to Tropicbird where we cooked dinner and watched a movie in the cockpit. After the movie they chose their sleeping quarters, half of the group choosing to sleep on deck beneath the stars.

The next leg of the journey along the coast would take us to Snug Harbor and shelter from the seas. The Easterly trade-winds were established by now and with them came a high swell. Since we were traveling side onto the swell as soon as I got some sail up the motion was dampened which helped with the seasickness issue. We had to motor out of Isla Pinos but raised sail as soon as we turned away from the wind. All my guests relaxed on deck or in the cockpit and enjoyed the salt air and the freshness of the day. We got full sail up and joyfully shut the motor down and sailed onward, making good speed. On approach to Snug Harbor there were depths of twenty five feet which, since the swell was so powerful made the waves break, creating crests of white foaming water. Fortunately there was a passage with depths of eighty feet and more so nothing to fear. It was an exhilarating sail for me and I got plenty of exercise setting sails.

The entrance to Snug was a blessed relief for Tamara and she rose from her cocoon. The rest of the group collected at the bow anticipating a restful stop. We anchored outside a restaurant I knew of which has an island to one side. We all waved and called to the launch driver who worked for the restaurant and he came over to talk. We planned a pick-up for six-thirty and the group invited me to join them for dinner at the restaurant. It’s been about four years since I have been invited to dinner, I felt privileged.

They all went for their first swim that day and although the water was murky due to the weather, they all seemed to enjoy themselves.  We had a fresh water shower and cleaned up for dinner.

During that after noon I continued writing the blog.

The restaurant was run by Kuna Indians and was an up-market affair,  although access to a variety of produce was limited. We ate fish with rice and a very small portion of broccoli followed by fruit salad. Perhaps typical of Kuna Indian design; the restaurant didn’t have its own rest-room and since we were not staying in the Cabanas had no access to toilets, so the open lawn and a coconut tree had to suffice.

The neighboring table had a family of boisterous people and I got chatting to them. They were fascinated with our situation and introductions were made. The father of the family used to be in the music business but now produced music to go onto cell phones and told me that this is now a business three times as big as the music business; surely an example of our rapidly changing world.

After dinner my group found the restaurants’ hammocks and rested. I am used to the rigors of sailing and the salt air; they were tired!  I tried to get everyone involved in playing Chinese Charades but I got only a few takers so played Pictionary with the family instead. We said our farewells and returned to Tropicbird on the Restaurants’ launch.  We were all tired and slept well.

Perhaps as part of the bonding process or perhaps to establish Tropicbird as ‘mother-bird’ whose responsibility was to take good care of these fledglings it was decided, (amongst us all I believe), to make a flag.

I took an old tee-shirt and sowed a line into it. Tamara and the other artists in the group designed the logo whilst I foraged in my paint store and found a paintbrush and black paint to finish the job. We hung it up to dry (not without one person bumbling into the wet paint). By the end of the day it was proudly flying from the port-side signal-flag halyard. (How’s that for pomposity of nautical terms!)

I repositioned Tropicbird beside the island and took a long rope from the bow to a palm tree on the shore and thus was able to draw my boat sideways close to the beach. During the day we all spent time on the beach playing Frisbee and the Colombian version of ‘Hop Scotch’. We took lunch over to the beach and had a feast. This included vegetable chili, rice and some more of the bread.

We discovered a pile of shoes and wondered why so many shoes were in one place. Perhaps over the years other people had accumulated them, we found one more on the beach to add to the pile and thus contributed to the tradition.

I left the beach before the others to continue my duties as their host. I decided to have a fresh water shower standing on my swim platform at the stern of Tropicbird. I have found in the past that showering with a swimsuit is a waste of water, time and effort so I stripped naked. I turned my back to my guests and merrily took my shower. After a few moments I heard some joyful giggling from the shore and glancing backwards found most of my friends also naked! This was an establishment of the camaraderie and relaxed atmosphere which is a hard commodity to ask for. As `Andres said ‘Let the group grow organically’. I think we took photos from both directions!

Whilst preparing the evening meal we discussed the route for the rest of the holiday. I was not keen on sailing throughout a whole night and Tamara for one didn’t want more than five hours sailing at one time. I explained the distances and the options with the help of the navigation charts; much heated debate followed. I sat back and let the process evolve. Finally compromises were made and it was agreed to get up early in the morning and continue to Coco Banderos, up the coast by five hours or so.

I got the boat ready to go by seven next morning and Andres swum over to untie the line from the Palm tree whilst I up-anchored. We made breakfast as we left Snug Harbor blowing the conch horn to announce our departure to the restaurant dwellers.

Coco Banderos which had been my very first stop in the islands two years previously. We made good time although the sea was quite high. There were long, tall waves of about eight to ten feet combined with a good breeze.  Fortunately the swell died down as we approached the island because of the shelter from the reefs. Everyone was enamored with the scene as we slid gently between two of the islands and anchored amidst a half dozen other boats. The group swam over to the reef and explored. I took Tamara over to the island immediately in front of Tropicbird, actually we hitchhiked a tow from a ‘cruiser’ who was passing by in her motorized dinghy.  On the island we met a Kuna couple; it seemed husband and wife, who explained that the woman owned the island. As is often the case the Kuna women hold the purse strings of any household or business. Tamara bought a Kuna ‘anklet’ and I rested for a while and marveled at the scene. It was truly beautiful, crystal clear water, tall coconut palms and pristine beaches. Time for more blog.

Tamara and I had ordered some bread and fruit to be delivered the next morning but had got no response from the phone number given,  so choosing to leave first thing in the morning we planned our next stop. It was getting easier to choose a route and a timetable since the check list of delights was being eroded. We decided to continue to the Holandes Cays the next day and thus satisfying an early request whilst we were in Sapzurro. I endeavor to satisfy the needs of my guests and this was an easy facilitation.

My group cooked dinner and watched a movie in the cockpit; as per normal I fell asleep during it. Despite the threat of rain the group slept on deck under the stars. Although free from mosquitoes because we were away from the beach rain was still an issue to deal with. Luckily there was little rain during the whole trip, it cleared up just before the charter;  luck or divine providence?

Next morning we set off for the Holandes and the ‘Swimming pool’, I had read somewhere of a resident nurse shark in the area and suggested we introduce ourselves by shaking fins! My crew continued to wonder about this character although they didn’t chastise me when I couldn’t find the article in the cruising guide. I guess the shark fled the book also.

On the way to the Holandes we followed a sailing boat and I discovered that this was a boat I had first met in Portobello. The captain had given me some unwanted clothes and various goodies so I decided to pay him back with some photos of his yacht under sail. One of my guests took the photos as we approached, via the VHF radio we organized to be led into the anchorage.

We followed the yacht in and found it crowded but practicing the science of anchoring I managed to find a suitable spot. Unfortunately this left us well away from the beach and any of the surrounding islands. I was hesitant about re-anchoring and asked on the radio for anyone benevolent enough to supply dinghy transportation, I got no takers. The answer to this predicament came when I realized my anchor was dragging. The placed was crowded and I was so close to other boats that I had to move rapidly to up-anchor. Another captain was staring at me with a tense expression on his face, I suspect he had experienced a novice trying to get out of this situation, he didn’t need to worry I pride myself in maneuvering my boat.

I talked on the radio to a friend and he explained about the ‘Hot Tub’,  another anchorage, so I decided to go there. I explained to my group that there would be a beach in easy access, coral to snorkel on and probably this would be the place to stay for the night; at-least  I thought it did. It seemed  suitable for my guests, they had another opinion, voiced , after suffering mosquitoes on the beach.

After some exploration it was decided that this was not the place to stay for the night. Mainly due to the presence of mosquitoes on the beach. I tried to explain that this was a typical area and in my endeavors to satisfy their need for a bug free beach, yet again I got on the VHF radio.

Another friend of mine was anchored next to us and he explained that we might try Sand Island. By the nature of its name this seemed an option and up came the anchor again. We couldn’t see Sand Island at first and upon approaching discovered why; it was just a patch of sand surrounded by the sea, no vegetation at all. Mind you no bugs, just too exposed for camping. There were a number of beaches behind sand Island and instead of going back to the previous anchorage I decided to be brave and explore. This led to me to hitting the bottom! No big deal as I was purposely moving slowly in a relatively uncharted region, I just went astern and shuffled off the sandy bottom. The light was fading so I had to anchor in fifty feet of water which provides less grip for the anchor. I hoped that the weather didn’t turn heavy during the night as I would have to monitor the security of my anchor. I have had many fit-full nights together with heightened paranoia;  please don’t lock me up just yet!

Whilst I was going to stay with my beloved Tropicbird and blog. The others, after a quick reconnoiter, decided to camp on the beach for the night. I asked how many were participating, the answer came from Tamara who told me that this group of friends did everything as a group. They busied themselves with packing tents, sleeping bags, covers, lights, food and water whilst I thought through a signaling system in-case either they wanted to vacate the island or I wanted them back on the boat. The code consisted of a combination of flashing of a light on my part and the blowing of a conch horn on theirs. My reasoning was the weather; theirs I hoped was not because they couldn’t make the best of the adventure they had chosen. So many times I have had to deal with people who don’t think their plan through thoroughly, especially given this new environment. This usually ends in a lot of work for me having to clear up their disorganized mess. It was not the case this time. My group made a fire on the beach and they reported next day that they had a great time. The mosquitoes arrived only in the early morning hours so the comfort level was maintained, helped I am sure by the fire which they kept ablaze all night. I recognized in all of my crew experience and practicality.

Next morning Andres was the first to arrive and he described the night’s experience, only complaining about the bugs as a reason to get up in the morning but otherwise having had a good time.

The night before I had delivered my crew to island using my rowing dinghy and another inflatable which had only one paddle (the other one had been absconded by a Kuna Indian some time back). I tied the two boats together and with combined propulsion moved people and possessions safely to the shore. The next guest arrived having paddled the inflatable with one paddle and no tow, all the way across the bay, which he explained was successful due to technique rather than strength. I was glad to hear that someone else shares my practical outlook, hence my adopted expression “I don’t have problems I have challenges”! More for the blog.

Next stop was Dog Island where many years ago a captain had beached his ship and swimmers could view the remains whilst snorkeling. I had been there several times before and had suffered the consequences of onshore winds and had stayed aboard ship; as yet I had not swum on the wreck. Fortunately there was an offshore wind so I anchored Tropicbird and joined the others for the experience. We all enjoyed the dive and exploring the small island. We met a couple from the Dominican Republic who were staying on a friend’s boat and they helped ferry my group back to Tropicbird. I was eager to find a suitable anchorage for the night and since time was pressing on the time and energy saved by this taxi ride helped enormously; thanks all around.

The East Lemmons had been mentioned in the initial planning session and these were immediately next to Dog Island. It was an easy entrance and led to a perfect anchorage. There was an island off to one side, a reef behind and crystal clear water all around. On my request the boys willingly swam to inspect my anchor and I found out later spent much effort in setting the anchor for maximum grip. Afterwards they departed to the island to do a complete reconnoiter. Meantime back on my boat I asked if anyone would like to go up the mast. Much discussion ensued as to how and who would really want to. Some trepidation was shown until it was suggested to Ava, who jumped at the chance without any hesitation what so ever. She got herself belted into the Bosons’ Chair and between myself and the remaining crew we winched her aloft. It was just getting dark and she was a fading image well above us. She stayed there for two hours or more! She counted over thirty islands and thoroughly enjoyed herself. On the last day having put my down anchor in Sapzurro she even asked if she could do it again, sorry Ava, next time for sure.

That evening my group made coconut rice whilst I barbequed some fish we had bought from a local fisherman. I had the fish ready well in advance of the rice; it took over three hours to prepare! It was well worth it and reminded me of ‘Milky Way’ chocolate and coconut candy bars I had eaten when I was a child. Half of us were involved with the cooking and the others, including myself, fell asleep and suffered through the hunger. It was suggested that we eat the fish first but out of good manners we all waited till the rice was ready. We took photos of the whole complex technique, marveling at the way the coconut oil separated from the juices.

Next day was a long one for me and I rose at five-thirty faced with the washing up from the night before. Due to the Coconut Oil manufacturing every pot in my cupboard had been used and it took me a long time to get everything back in place ready for sailing. I up-anchored and set course for Snug harbor once again. Although this would be a repeat visit it was a place which provided a safe anchorage and an opportunity for further exploration, there was the village nearby which as yet we had not visited.

Passage there was uneventful except for one glimpse of a few dolphins; my guests lounging around deck semi-comatose. Tamara as per normal was cocooned, avoiding seasickness. We arrived in late afternoon and anchored next to the same island adjacent to the island with the restaurant and cabanas. The boys took a swim and Tamara hailed the restaurants launch over to Tropicbird so as to meet with the proprietor and order dinner. She came back with one of the guests, a girl from the States who was given the grand tour of my boat. Later she came with us to the village and played volleyball with the local Kunas. She stood nearly six feet tall and dwarfed the locals although they were experienced players and fought a strong battle.

The rest of us toured the island and bought fresh drinking water, beers and snacks. We were amazed at how many albinos there were in this village and how the life of the community was unaffected by cell phones since there was no signal. Ava was adopted by a small boy who took her hand and bonded readily. They walked hand in hand for the duration of our stay.

We joined other guests from the Kuna hotel and returned to the restaurant for dinner. I had caught a fish during the day and it was cooked for me. The others either had fish or lobster, we were aghast at how small the lobsters were. If the Kunas want to have lobster in the future they must learn to farm intelligently.

The owner of the restaurant showed me photos of a piece of land up a river where he is building a ‘Finca’. It was interesting that he showed me these on an IPad. The Kuna Indians live with extremes of technology; from dugout canoe to computer.

One of the guests was an environmentalist whose primary interest was the monitoring and restoration of Coral, he had projects all over the world and showed my guests one of the areas he was involved in at the back of the resort island. He took all our email addresses and promised to send us updates.

During dinner Andres spoke to me about the onward journey. I had refused to sail at night for many reasons, most logistically since too much distance would be covered and the possibility of seasickness heightened. At this juncture the distance between the last two stops was fourteen hours so I agreed that we all stay at Snug harbor during the next day and start early the next day arriving in Sapzurro in the dark on their final day. I knew the entrance and had tracked the course on my computer, so the plan was ok with me.

As per normal that night we had dinner and watched a movie this time ‘The invention of lying’. I had chosen all the films for the group and all were readily accepted and enjoyed. I have tried to have a group decide for themselves before but this leads to great controversy, it’s much easier just to have one person to blame!

The group organized an excursion into the jungle to a waterfall so I was able to spend the afternoon preparing Tropicbird for the passage to Sapzurro. I was thinking about the timetable as I busied myself with the rig. I knew that the whiskey had come out and the words ‘Farewell Party’ were ringing in my ears. They had also given me some earplugs immediately before departing for their excursion, what was planned? As I tended to my boat I realized the best way to avoid being kept up all night without disturbance would be to sail through the night. This was challenging for me since there was little moonlight, I doubled up on the GPS and with everything ‘Shipshape and Bristol fashion’, motored into the blackness.

Food was prepared but not much was eaten. The sea had been flat for all of the afternoon; it now decided to gets its act together and make the ride a bumpy one. The announcement at my Pow-Wow in the cockpit that we would depart as soon as possible was met with childlike glee! The enthusiasm and joy continued for the next hour or so. Once out of the harbor and on the open sea the mood dampened. Having eaten everyone slept, snoozed or just rested. I had my egg-timer set for twenty minute snoozes, between instrument checks, setting sails and keeping lookout. Since almost everyone was in the cockpit I didn’t adhere to a strict watch keeping schedule. Next day I was told that many times I had slept on after the alarm; I guess this was a sign that deep down I had learned to have confidence in my present crew.

We rolled on, (literally) and made Sapzurro by early afternoon.  Plans were made to go to the hostel and once again I was invited to have dinner with them. They got themselves together and after several group photos departed Tropicbird.

That evening they prepared the lobster and the crab and we all had a splendid dinner at the hostel. I had spent the afternoon writing this blog as a gift to my friends. After dinner I enjoyed reading it to them. Perhaps they will use it to remind themselves of their time with Captain Julian and Tropicbird.

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This was the best charter I have ever had; and despite the help of the San Blas islands as a venue,  the main contribution came from my guests. They allowed me to concentrate on sharing this paradise with them and sailing my boat. Andres noticed and commented on the broad smile I expressed whilst sailing.  They brought new dishes to my boat and cooked fabulous food. They were enthusiastic and respectful of both myself and my boat.

I have said before that sailing is not about the place you get to or the place you came from, its about the bit in-between; as is life itself.

Being a worldly person is gained by experience and I hope I did my bit to provide some for them. They gave me a ‘life experience’; thanks one and all.